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Jack Martin

Hair Color Expert based in the West Coast who specialises in grey hair. His clients include celebrated actors and Andie MacDowell.

Which bargain product do you swear by?

My top pick is a gentle drying cloth, or even a smooth cotton shirt to towel-dry your locks. It's often overlooked how much harm a standard towel can do, notably with lightened or dyed strands. A simple switch can really lessen brittleness and splitting. Another inexpensive must-have is a wide-tooth comb, to use during washing. It shields your locks while smoothing out tangles and helps maintain the integrity of the hair shafts, especially after lightening.

What item or service justifies the extra cost?

A high-quality styling iron – ceramic or tourmaline, with smart temperature control. Silver and light-coloured hair can develop brassy tones or get damaged without the right iron.

Which hair trend or treatment would you never recommend?

Self-applied color lifting. Internet videos often simplify it, but the reality is it’s one of the most hazardous actions you can do to your hair. There are cases where individuals cause irreversible harm, snap their strands or end up with uneven tones that are incredibly challenging to remedy. I would also avoid chemical straightening processes on pre-lightened strands. Such treatments are often too aggressive for already fragile strands and can cause long-term damage or color changes.

What’s the most common mistake you see in your salon?

People using the wrong products for their particular strand characteristics. Certain clients overapply colour-correcting purple shampoo until their lightened locks looks lifeless and muted. Others rely too much on protein-rich treatments and end up with rigid, fragile strands. Another significant problem is using hot tools sans safeguard. When applying flat irons, curling irons or blow dryers without a protective product, – particularly on bleached locks – you’re going to see discoloration, dehydration and damage.

Which product, treatment or supplement would you recommend for hair loss?

Hair loss needs a multilayered approach. Externally, minoxidil remains a top choice. My advice includes scalp formulas with active ingredients to enhance nutrient delivery and aid in hair growth. Applying a cleansing scalp wash often helps clear out buildup and allows products to perform better. Internal support including clinical supplements have also shown positive outcomes. They enhance overall health for hair benefits by addressing hormonal imbalances, anxiety and nutritional deficiencies.

For those seeking higher-level solutions, blood-derived therapies – where a concentration from your blood is administered – can be successful. That said, I always suggest seeing a dermatologist or trichologist first. Thinning can be linked to medical conditions, and it’s important to get to the root cause rather than pursuing temporary solutions.

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Anabel Kingsley

Scalp and Hair Scientist and brand president of Philip Kingsley services and items for shedding.

What’s your routine for trims and color?

My trims are every couple of months, but will snip damaged ends myself every two weeks to keep my ends healthy, and have highlights done every eight weeks.

Which bargain product do you swear by?

Toppik hair fibres are remarkably effective if you have areas of scalp visibility. These particles bond to your existing hair, and it comes in a variety of shades, making it almost invisible. I personally applied it after childbirth when I had significant shedding – and also presently during some significant shedding after having awful flu a few months ago. Since hair is non-vital, it’s the initial area to show decline when your diet is lacking, so I would also recommend a balanced, nutritious diet.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

For those with genetic thinning in women, I’d say medicated treatments. Regarding increased shedding, or telogen effluvium, buying an over-the-counter product is fine, but for FPHL you really do need clinical interventions to see the best results. I believe minoxidil mixed with supporting compounds – such as hormones, anti-androgens and/or anti-inflammatories – works best.

Which hair trend or treatment would you never recommend?

Rosemary extracts for shedding. It's ineffective. This belief comes from a minor study from 2015 that compared the effects of a mild minoxidil solution versus rosemary extract. A low concentration like 2% is insufficient to do much for genetic balding in men, so the study is basically saying they work as little as each other.

Additionally, excessive biotin. Hardly anyone is biotin deficient, so consuming it probably won't help your locks, and it can skew thyroid readings in blood tests.

What blunder stands out often?

Personally, I prefer "scalp cleansing" over "hair washing" – because the primary purpose of washing is to clear away sebum, debris, sweat and pollutants. Many individuals refrain from cleansing as they think it’s bad for their hair, when in fact the contrary is accurate – especially if you have dandruff, which is intensified by sebum accumulation. When sebum remains on the skin, they deteriorate and lead to inflammation.

Unfortunately, what your scalp needs and what your hair likes don’t always align, so it’s a balancing act. However, if you cleanse softly and treat damp strands kindly, it won’t be damaging to your strands.

Which options help with shedding?

For genetic thinning in women, start with minoxidil. It's backed by strong research and tends to work best when compounded with other hair-supportive actives. If you're interested in complementary therapies, or you prefer not to use it or are unable, you could try collagen induction therapy (with a specialist), and perhaps injections or laser devices.

For TE, you need to do some detective work. Noticeable thinning usually relates to a health trigger. Occasionally, the reason is temporary – such as sickness, virus or emotional strain – and it will improve spontaneously. Sometimes, hormonal problems or dietary gaps are responsible – the frequent culprits include iron stores, B12 and D insufficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus