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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. However, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest place securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.